Events can sometimes be difficult for model aviation clubs. You need volunteers, funding for food and supplies can be a hardship. But when Triple Creek RC Club (TCRC) of Riverview (Tampa) Fl. holds an event, it’s a big deal. Not only did they hold a two day electric event, they have a second two day event planned in October. OMG! That’s two, two day events the same month!
The clubs Secretary shared that they have been doing this for a few years now and when the TCRC members are needed, they come out in mass. They sure came out for their Wattfest all electric event!
Wattfest 2014 is TCRC’s fourth annual event. It is an all electric event and this year it was coordinated by Greg Karpey. Greg was the CD, event organizer and is the Club’s safety officer.
Greg explained that he started working on this event the day after last years event.
There was a pile of raffle prizes and give aways that took two days just to give them away. Items were donated from Castle Creations, Bob Smith glues, FMS, Brandon Hobbytown USA and from members that own their own business’ like, Pinch a Penny Pool & Patio, A-Plus AC and many more.
This was an impressive event with over 60 pilots and a nice staff of volunteers! Steve Sciuga was the events voice for the two days.
Holy Cow, this guy gave nonstop information on the AMA, the club, how to join, introduced club members gave info on the pilots, the planes they were flying and even the equipment in the planes. He even involved the pilots by having them speak about their aircraft on the microphone.
They had their club trainer available for spectators to experience RC flying.
The kitchen crew (Wes and Dawn Neal and Bob and Peggy Schur) were a great addition. They started the day with a great breakfast and then the lunch was amazing! Bar B Que/smoked Chicken, hamburgers, hot dogs and chicken salad! This team was very proud of their kitchen and the food they served.
There were four to six aircraft in the air the whole event. Everything from small to large, fast to slow and even when it wasn’t part of a halftime show, there was a pilot flying the wheel pants off some airplane or a helicopter. It was really a fun event.
In the spectators area the UBUYADRONE.COM guys had set up a large screen TV. During the event they would send up one of several “drones”. The spectators could watch the event from above. They would follow aircraft around in the air while flying. It gave a whole different view to the event. Plus they displayed their copter products.
Speaking of halftime shows, TCRC provided some nice demos. Luis Espinosa demoed some 3D flying like a pro! Eleven year old Justin Cook got everyones attention when he showed his incredible 3D Helicopter skills. This kid is amazing to watch. His Dad, John, said they have had to change their blade sponsor. John explained that Justin was was going through the other blades from his aggressive flying that caused boom strikes.
The second day was more relaxed and just as much fun.
Triple Creek RC Club is located in Riverview, Florida, just outside of Tampa. If you are in their area just drop in. They are a friendly bunch and would love to have you join them for an afternoon of flying.
A Shark Fin on a Boomerang! The MiG-17 Fresco construction article will be featured in the February 2015 issue of MAN. Plans no. X0215A will be available at the Airagestore.com website shortly.
Designed by Jim Young
The Mikoyan-Gurevich Mig-17 is the follow on of the more famous Mig-15, one of the first successful swept-wing jet fighters. It was designed to fix any combat problems found with the Mig-15. The result was one of the most successful jet fighters prior to the introduction of true supersonic planes. The Mig-17 is longer than the Mig-15 and was the first use of an afterburner in a Soviet fighter. 8000 Mig-17’s saw service from the early 1950’s through the 1960’s by twenty countries. There are almost 30 privately owned Mig-17’s in the United States, with several pulling airshow duties, giving many options for color schemes.
This Mig-17 is designed around the Great Planes 56mm Hyperflow EDF unit (GPMG3910) and the Ammo 24-45-3790 brushless motor (GPMG5185). This economical setup give nice EDF performance on a 4S 2200mAhr LiPo battery pack. The outline is true to scale with the exception of larger ailerons and the position of the stab to simplify construction.
A laser cut short kit is available from the author to speed construction of your own Mig-17. Ordering information is printed on the plans.
The following is list of the major pieces of wood and hardware needed to complete the model.
(5) 1/16” x 4” x 36” Balsa Wing and Fin Skins
(2) 1/16” x 1/4” x 36” Basswood Rear Spars
(1) 1/16” x 1/2” x 36” Basswood Wing L.E.
(1) 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” Balsa Aileron and Fin L.E.
(1) 3/16” x 1/2” x 36” Balsa Wing L.E.
(5) 3/32” x 4” x 36” Balsa Fuselage Planking and Stabilizer
(1) 1/8” x 4” x 8” Balsa Rudder
(1) 1/64” x 12” x 24” Plywood Ducts
(1) Sullivan #507 Flex Cable
(1) 1/32” x 36” Music Wire
(1) 1/4” x 24” Dowel
If cutting your own parts:
(3?) 1/16” x 4” x 24” Balsa Wing and Tail Ribs
(1) 1/16” x 12” x 24” Plywood Fuselage Formers
(1) 1/64” x 4” x 24” Plywood
The stab and elevator are 3/32” balsa laminated around a central core of 1/64” plywood. The grain of the balsa should run parallel to the trailing edge of the stab. The plywood provides a “joiner” between the two halves of the stab and slots for CA type hinges. Taper the elevators and round the leading edge of the stab. Bevel the L.E. of the elevators, glue the control horns in place, and temporarily hinge the control surfaces. The rudder is laminated in a similar fashion with 1/8” balsa on both sides of the plywood core.
The fin is built up and has features to slide on to the fuselage formers. Sand the front and rear of each rib to match the angle of the L.E. and T.E. Pin the ribs in place over the plans and glue the ¼” balsa L.E. and T.E. Glue the V6’s in place using scrap 1/16” plywood to set the gap between them. Glue the V7 fin tips in place. Shape the T.E. and tip to match the ribs.
Sheet the fin with 1/16” balsa. Remove the fin assembly from the board and cut an opening in the sheeting between V3 and V4 for the stabilizer. Add scrap balsa blocks at the front and rear of the slot to fit close to the stabilizer. Install the elevator flex cable as shown on the plans. Remove the building tabs from the ribs and sheet the other side. Cut an opening in the sheeting between V3 and V4. Glue the stab in place, making sure it is square to the fin. Temporarily hinge the rudder and glue the control horn in place.
Prepare the top and bottom wing skins. Edge glue two sheets of 1/16” balsa together. Use the plans to cut the wing sheeting leaving it slightly over sized at the L.E. and root. For the top skin, bevel the trailing edge of the sheeting to the line shown on the plans. Glue the balsa spar box top and bottom (SB1) to the plywood spar box sides (SB2). Use two layers of scrap 1/16” plywood between the sides to ensure the spar will fit. Position R2 on the spar box and glue it in place up against the tabs. Slide R1 and R3 on to the spar box and glue in place. Glue the outer spar box top (SB3) and bottom (SB4) in place. Sand the outboard end of the spar box to match the L.E. Sand the front of each rib to match the angle of the L.E. Pin the spar box assembly and the rest of the wing ribs in place over the plans.
Glue the 1/16”x1/4” basswood rear spars in place. Glue R2A in place making sure it is level with the board. Glue the 1/16” balsa T.E. in place and sand the top to match the rear spars. Glue the 1/16” basswood sub-leading edge and plane/sand it flush with the ribs. Note there is a slight bend in the L.E. at R4 and it should taper slightly outboard of R7. Glue the top sheeting in place, and trim it flush with the L.E.
Remove the wing assembly from the board. Use pinholes to locate R2, R4, and R5 for the wing fences. Jig the wing up-side-down over the plans. Make sure the wing is properly pinned down and touching all of the jigs to set the correct washout. Glue the 1/16” plywood servo hatch mount in place. At the L.E. make sure the mount is even with the surrounding ribs. Laminate the three layer wing tip flat, and then glue it to the top sheeting. The top sheeting will bend to the wing tip. Sand the wing tip to blend with the ribs.
Mark the location for the aileron ribs using the marks on the plans. Sand the 1/4” balsa aileron L.E. as shown on the plans. Glue the aileron L.E. to the top sheeting followed by the aileron ribs. Use pin holes to mark the corners of the aileron. Plane the sub-leading edge flush with the ribs. Glue the 1/16” balsa bottom sheeting in place. Use a pin to locate the servo hatch mounting holes. Use the 1/16” plywood servo hatch as a template to remove the bottom sheeting. The aileron servo is mounted to the hatch. Glue the 3/16” balsa L.E. in place and sand to shape. Cut the aileron free from the wing. Glue the control horn to the end of the aileron. The ailerons are hinged along the top with the covering material or book binding tape. The sheeting at the wing roots will be trimmed to match the fuselage later.
Do I have to tell you to make two wings, a right and a left? I didn’t think so, moving on.
Laminate the two F4’s together using 30 minute epoxy. Weigh them down under something flat to ensure a straight and strong wing spar. Use thin CA to glue a small piece of light weight glass cloth on both sides of F8 and F9 around the fin mounts. Laminate the top and bottom fuselage stringers. Assemble and balance the fan unit. Test run it and make sure all screws have thread locker on them. Round the inside inlet edge of the fan shroud.
Glue F6 and F7 to the fan unit using the top and bottom stringers to position them. Use the marks on the former and mold lines on the fan to line up the formers. Dry assemble all of the fuselage formers (F1 to F9) to the top and bottom stringers. Add the servo and battery mounts (F10 and F11). Jig the fuselage over the plans and square each former to the plans. Use thin CA to glue the fuselage structure together. Glue the hatch formers to the top stringer using 1/64” plywood to space them from F2 and F4. Glue the H1 hatch edges in place. There should be an 1/8” gap between these pieces. Slip wax paper between the hatch formers and F2 and F4.
The length of the inlet ducting breaks several rules of EDF design. Several tests were performed with various duct lengths and any effect on performance is negligible. There are considerable forces trying to collapse the inlet it during flight (think trying to suck a milk shake through a straw). Ensure that the duct material is solid, has no cracks in it, and that it is securely glued to all formers. Cut the front and rear ducts from 1/64” plywood. The edges of the ducts overlap 1/4” and are beveled to provide a smooth duct.
Insert the ducts in the fuselage and double check the fuselage alignment. Use the duct jig mounted to a 1/4” dowel to hold it round as you glue the seam with thin CA. Install the outlet duct making sure F8 and F9 are aligned and square to the board.
Fit the tail assembly to the fuselage. When satisfied with the alignment apply a liberal amount of 30 minute epoxy and make it permanent. Use the extra outer sleeve from the flex cable and 1/32” music wire for the rudder linkage. Install the motor wires and aileron servo extensions.
Use the planking template on the plans to cut 3/32” balsa planks. This will help reduce the amount of cutting and fitting. Slightly bevel the edges of each plank before gluing it in place. Using aliphatic glue along the edges and CA to glue the planks to the formers makes quick work of this task. Plank the top of the fuselage as far as you can down each side. Cut partially through the planks around hatch so you can find it later. Remove the fuselage from the board. Bend the tow hook from 1/16” music wire and epoxy it in F12.
Use 1/64” plywood scraps to trap the tow hook in place. Complete the fuselage planking and sand the fuselage smooth. Cut holes to match the aileron servo lead holes in the wing ribs and to clear the spar box.
Cut the hatch free and add the forward pin and a rear locking mechanism of your choice. Sand the planking even with the H1’s on the hatch and H2’s on the fuselage.
Glue a piece of 1/16” basswood to the H1’s on the hatch and in the fuselage. Replace the hatch and sand the basswood edges flush with the planking. Trim the canopy to fit the hatch. It is glued in place after covering.
Slide each wing on to the spar and mark the wing sheeting with the shape of the fuselage. Trim the sheeting for a tight fit to the fuselage. R1 should touch the fuselage at F4. When satisfied with the fit, apply 30 minute epoxy and slide the wings in place.
Jig the fuselage over the plans and pin the wing tip jigs in place. Double check the alignment and let it cure overnight. Apply a small fillet around the root of the wing, the fin, and stab. Final sand the airframe and prepare it for finishing.
There are many color schemes that the Mig-17 has appeared in. You can go with traditional military silver/gray, or the Mig-17 has become popular with several airshow pilots and teams if you want something more colorful. Any of the iron on films should be fine for this little EDF. Glassing and paint is also an option, but keep in mind the 30 oz. target weight.
Install the radio gear, we used HS-45’s all around. To provide cooling for the ESC, use thermal epoxy to bond it into a hole cut in the inlet duct. A receiver with end pins is required to fit under the hatch. A pair of 2Sx2200mAhr packs are wired in series and positioned to balance the model as shown on the plans. Set up the control throws as listed on the plans, paying particular attention to the elevator throw.
To keep the MiG-17 light, the landing gear was omitted in favor of bungee launching. If you don’t have a bungee launcher, I recommend the Great Planes Bungee Launch Set (GPMA2885). With about 20 paces of tension on the bungee, throttle up and release the Mig from shoulder height. It will accelerate quickly with very little drop while on the bungee.
I strongly recommend that for the first few flights you climb to altitude and do some tests at half throttle and apply full up elevator. The high tail position of the MiG can cause the stabilizer to be blanketed by the wing with too much up elevator. If you have too much elevator the Mig will start to tumble. If this happens, reduce power and get the nose down (hence the need to do this at altitude) and gently pull out. Switch to low rates and repeat the test. Reduce the elevator throw as necessary.
With the light wing loading, full power is not needed for mild aerobatics. The stall is gentle and straightforward. Loops, rolls, point rolls, and inverted flight are all within the capabilities. With the C.G. set as shown, inverted flight requires just a bit of down to maintain level flight. When the throttle is pushed the MiG accelerates quickly and the vertical performance is awesome. The recommended power system will easily push the MiG at 90mph. You better make sure your eyeglass prescription is up to date, because it gets small fast.
Landings are straight forward and the MiG can be slowed down. Keep the wings level in final and use the rudder for course corrections. With the anhedral wing it is easy to catch a wing tip.
Over this last weekend the Best in the West Jet Rally had its 25th event in Buttonwillow, CA. This event drew in over 130 Pilots from all over the country and the world. One of the many outstanding jets at this event was Barry Hou’s (Pasadena, CA) outstanding Skymaster F-14. This great looking warbird had retractable wings just like the full size counterpart. We were lucky enough to attach a GoPro camera to this bad boy and get some great aerial footage, including a very close near miss. Enjoy the photos.
At RC Truck Stop we’re in the content creation business. That said everyone once in a while we share some cool content from our, well, competitors (and friends) such as RC Soup or RC Insider. Seems odd, but we don’t have our head stuck in the sand pretending we’re the only RC website out there. There are others and we are well aware that you know it. So, if we see something worth sharing, we share. Such is the case with this article on the subject of waterproof we found on Axial Racing’s site.
We weren’t the only ones impressed by this article. Check out a couple of these quotes we saw on Axial’s Facebook page:
“Nice article and you guys are probably the first to really tell the truth. Good job!!”–Ken R.
“This article is another reason I feal Axial is a great company that Does care about it’s customers”–Trevor O.
“What a freakin’ excellent article. I’m going to print it out, book mark it, pass it around. That answered a ton of questions I have been asking and getting mixed responses to. THANKS AXIAL!!!!”–Adrian A.
The Hangar 9 Spitfire Mk IXc is a high quality ARF. Initial impressions out of the box is this is a top notch ARF. It is complete with matt finish and panel lines, includes fibreglass cowl with rivets molded in. The kit is well packaged to ensure it arrives safe. My plan is to add a little weathering, a scale cockpit and maybe a couple of beer kegs under the wings. The plane will be powered by a NGH 35.
Video review of the unboxing.
Though many scale airplanes are equipped with tricycle landing gear, planes with tailwheels — tail-draggers — remain very popular. It is fair to say that most of the RC airplanes flown today fall into the tail-dragger category. In the air, tail-draggers behave just like tricycle-gear aircraft do, but on the ground, it’s another story altogether. Once you’ve built your first tailwheel plane, coping with its ground handling can be challenging. Here are some tips for taming that tail-dragger.
A tail-dragger has its balance point behind the main landing gear. At rest, this keeps the tail firmly on the ground, but once the tail comes up during takeoff, the model becomes inherently less stable. You must keep it lined up with the runway’s centerline, or its center of mass will try to shift around one way or the other, and this will result in an abrupt, tail-swinging turn known as a “ground loop.” If you let this happen, you may damage your model. The secret to taking off and landing a tail-dragger smoothly is to quickly use the rudder to correct any tail-swing. The sooner you correct it, the smoother your maneuver will be. Setting up the main landing gear with a little toe-in will also help to reduce tail-swing. It does take more skill to take off and land a tail-dragger, but it’s nothing that can’t be overcome with a little time and practice.
AFTERMARKET TAILWHEELSThis Sullivan Products tailwheel assembly is one of the best I’ve used for sport airplanes. It is available in four sizes; choose one to suit your model’s weight. This tailwheel is typical of what you find in most ARF kits. It looks strong but does not prevent steering shock from reaching the rudder servo. This tailwheel is supplied with the Great Planes CAP 232 and the Super Sportster ARF kits and is also available separately. It’s light and easy to install. This Carl Goldberg Products tailwheel is another good choice. It comes with all the hardware, including the wheel, and is available in four sizes to fit airplanes weighing from 6 to 39 pounds. The bright plated finish will keep it looking new and free of rust. One of the best I’ve used is this Ohio Superstar Products tailwheel. It’s available in five sizes for models weighing from 4 to 50 pounds. It is very rugged and has a very true-to-scale look. You’ll find this great-looking tailwheel on the Pacific Aeromodel 27% Edge 540 T ARF. It has a fiberglass strut, a neat caster-wheel assembly and springs to absorb steering shock.
Though there are many tail-dragger models on the market, some kits include tailwheel hardware that isn’t as rugged as it should be. This is where the many aftermarket tailwheel assemblies come in.
One of my favorites for sport and non-scale airplanes is the spring-loaded Sullivan tailwheel. It’s robust and easy to attach with two screws. It has a spring wire to isolate the side steering loads from the servo and is available in four sizes. Another very good tailwheel is the sport design from Great Planes (GPMA2868). It is one of the best I have seen in ARF kits. A nylon bushing is mounted in a hole in the tail. The tailwheel-wire strut is mounted in the bushing with a wheel collar installed and retained by an aluminum clip. A thin wire that acts as a spring is soldered to and wrapped around the tailwheel strut and captured in a nylon bushing mounted under the rudder. The tailwheel assembly is plated, and it includes a wheel.
Carl Goldberg Products offers a new tailwheel assembly in three sizes for 6- to 35-pound models. It is a more conventional design and very true to scale. It comes with all the hardware, including the wheel. The strut is made of hardened, plated and polished steel, and the wheel caster comes mounted. A tiller arm is connected to the rudder with two springs, and this arrangement isolates the servo from steering shock.
Another excellent choice that has been around for years is the Ohio Superstar tailwheel. It also has a tiller arm and springs to isolate the servo from steering shock. It comes painted black and is available in sizes to fit small and large airplanes.
Be aware of the flimsy tailwheel setup that has the wheel attached directly to the rudder. This setup is acceptable for small models, but it is not good for larger planes. Because of the constant shock of ground steering and landing, sooner or later, a tailwheel that’s attached to the rudder will fail and damage the rudder and possibly its servo, too. A good tailwheel setup provides positive steering and ground handling, isolates the rudder from steering shock and should last a long time.
So, with your next model, take a closer look at the tailwheel assembly that comes in the kit. If it’s wimpy, there are plenty of aftermarket tailwheel choices that will improve your model’s ground handling and enhance its scale looks.
BY JERRY SMITH
The AerobTec Altis V4 is an RC altimeter designed especially for F5J and E-Soaring electric sailplane competitions, though it can also be used to record the barometric altitude of any object – a RC model, a bird, kite, or full size aircraft.
Its unique benefit is the built-in screen that displays the F5J Start Height (or other data) automatically. This allows F5J competitions to be run very easily and safely, with no plugging in of gizmos or fiddling with wires.
Another great benefit is its ability to interface with Jeti Duplex and Multiplex M-Link 2.4GHz receivers to give real time altitude telemetry. Despite these very powerful features the Altis V4 is very small and light.
The Altis Flight Manager software is used to download the logged data onto a PC, to display and analyze it, and to save it in various formats. Please go to the AerobTec Altis V4 page to download the flight manager software and firmware updates. Note the software is NOT included in the package, and must be downloaded by the customer. Also the Micro USB to USB cable and telemetry cable are not included in the product, and need to be purchased, if required.
Functions: Altimeter, Thermometer, Altitude Switch, Telemetry
Upgradeable: Via USB PC Interface
Telemetry Support: Jeti Duplex, Multiplex M-Link
Operational Voltage: 4V to 12.6V
Dimensions: 33mm x 20mm x 6.5mm
Weight: 8g w/Cable
Calibration: No user calibration required
Memory: Over 15 hours at the 0.1 second sample interval
Sample Rates: Adjustable from 0.1 to 25.5 seconds per sample
More information can be found here: http://www.espritmodel.com/aerobtec-competition-recording-altimeter-switch-altis-v4-fai-f5j.aspx
AERTV4 – $85.00
Gallery > Esprit Model AerobTec Competition Recording Altimeter Switch Altis V4
Well, don’t look now, but the winter is fast approaching. Instead of packing your models away for storage, why not extend your flying season and embrace the white stuff with DU-BRO Snowbird Skis!? Like the hard working bush pilots of the outback and great Northwest, attaching skis to your RC airplane can turn any semi-flat area like a pasture (or a lake!), into a cold weather runway. But doing it correctly is the first order of business.
Many RC pilots strap on the DU-BRO Snowbird and/or the Park Flyer Snow Skis and prep their planes for fun in the snow. But this can bring some questions on the proper method of attaching the skis and so, DU-BRO has produced another useful How To video to show you the best way to get this done so you and your favorite sport flyer can be ready when the snow flies!
Video From the DU-BRO Workshop
Ready for the White Stuff.
Be sure to dress warmly!
Photos Courtesy of Ken Park
We’ve always been fans of Hitec servos — available in every size under the sun and with the reliability and performance we need. In recent years they’ve come out with some great radios, chargers and even airplanes, and now they’ve added a sport flier series of speed controls to their lineup! We can’t wait to get our hands on these motor masters! Here’s the official press release:
Hitec is proud to introduce our new ENERGY SPORT electronic speed control line. Designed specifically for the sport flier, Hitec’s new ENERGY SPORT speed controls deliver the reliability and performance your hobby demands! These economically-priced ESCs come pre-wired with standard motor and battery connectors, and are available in several sizes to accommodate a wide variety of models.
- Smooth Linear Throttle Response
- Thermal Overload Protection
- Signal Loss Protection
- Low Voltage Cutoff
- Pre-wired with Standard Battery & Motor Connectors
- User Friendly
- Optional Programming Card
- Hitec’s Legendary Customer Service and Warranty
Energy Sport 20 amp – Stock #59046 | Estimated Street Price: $19.99
Energy Sport 40 amp – Stock #59047 | Estimated Street Price: $25.99
Energy Sport 50 amp – Stock #59048 | Estimated Street Price: $39.99
Energy Sport 60 amp – Stock #59049 | Estimated Street Price: $49.99
Energy Sport 80 amp – Stock #59050 | Estimated Street Price: $59.99
Energy Sport Program Card – Stock #59051 | Estimated Street Price: $9.99