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Throw Back Thursday! — Old MAN Photo Files

Throw Back Thursday! — Old MAN Photo Files

We dusted off some great old snap shots by our dear friend George Leu. George traveled all over the country and contributed to several articles in MAN along with his time as a Scale columnist. All these photos are from a folder marked 1987 – 88

From the Scale Masters held in California. Two years before Top Gun, here’s Frank Tiano with an impressive looking and for the day, fairly big P-47 Thunderbolt.

FrankT2

Below, is proof, that Frank has on occasion actually smiled!

FrankT1

Below is A beautiful P-51D built from a Dave Platt kit by Charlie Chambers.

Charlie Chambers Platt P51

Judging from the ground, seems to be the same event as Frank attended with his Thunderbolt.

The Mustang was powered by a ST 2500 and weighed in at 22 pounds.

Charlie Mustang

A true craftsman, Charlie covered his Mustang with Aluminum Printer Plate material. Beautifully detailed inside and out, Frank featured Charlie’s P-51 in his Sporty Scale column in MAN.

Shinn Morrisey 2150A Kachina Claude McCullough

Also photographed at the California Scale Masters, was this impressive Morrisey Shinn 2150A Kachina. We’re not sure of the builder/pilot, but our guess is Claude McCullough.

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Unusual RC: Swiss Army Knife Takes Flight

Unusual RC: Swiss Army Knife Takes Flight

The ingenuity of RC plane modelers never ends, and this sharp-flying aircraft is definitely one of a kind. Check it out!

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How to: Make Bubble Windows

How to: Make Bubble Windows

Many full-scale airplanes and helicopters feature bubble windows to allow the crew greater visibility. Replicating these windows can be tricky for scale modelers, as it’s inconvenient to make a vacuum-forming plug for each uniquely shaped window frame. In full-scale aircraft manufacturing, these bubble windows are almost always free-blown from sheet plastic clamped in a frame. This makes the tooling minimal, with the added benefit that the depth of the bubble can be adjusted for each installation — shallower for reduced drag and deeper for greater visibility.

When I was finishing up my scratch-built Kaman HH-43 Huskie, I decided to copy the full-scale guys and blow my own bubble windows. It turned out to be remarkably easy, and I’ll be using this technique again in the future.

The best scratch-building techniques use stuff you have on hand. The key to this project was my air compressor and the regulator I installed for painting models. Everything else is basic shop tools, and no particular skill is required. So, let’s blow some bubbles!

1: Here’s the simple setup for blowing bubble windows. The main fixture is a simple air box made from ⅛-inch-thick fiber-board. For larger windows, thicker stock or plywood may be required, but this works fine for windows in the 4×4-inch range.

2: Starting with a blank of artist’s matboard, cut an opening the size of the finished window. Matboard holds up to heat, and you’re only going to use it a few times anyway. Apply masking tape around the perimeter of the matboard to protect it from subsequent tape layers.

3: Clear PETG sheet is taped to the underside of the matboard frame. This way, the matboard shields the window flanges and the masking tape from the heat.

4: The matboard fame is laid on the pressure box and a fiberboard support plate is taped over it. This support plate reinforces the matboard against the increased air pressure during the forming operation.

5: The plastic is heated to its forming temperature as the air pressure is dialed up. Heating can be done with a toaster oven, but for small parts I found that a heat gun worked well and allowed me to direct heat where needed. As the plastic softens, the air pressure is adjusted to control the bubble. Once the desired depth is reached, leave the air pressure on until the part fully cools.

6: Remove the formed window from the pressure box and trim the flanges. For matching left and right windows, simply flip the matboard frame to make a mirror-image part.

7: The completed window perfectly copies the original aircraft, and the whole operation only took an evening to complete.

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1951 Movie of Free-Flight Helicopter

1951 Movie of Free-Flight Helicopter

Check out this vintage helicopter model, powered by two ”jet” engines mounted at right angles to the propellers! It takes off and flies, but does it land safely? Watch this great video and find out.

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Great Planes Citabra-v1.mp4

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C-131 Cargomater

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Hangar 9 Spitfire Mk IXc 30cc ARF

Hangar 9 Spitfire Mk IXc 30cc ARF

This plane is made for all of you Spitfire fans out there, and for all you soon to be Spitfire fans. The new Hangar 9 Spitfire Mk IXc 30cc ARF is not only a great looking aircraft, it is a great flying aircraft. I was lucky enough to do the review on this airplane. When you watch the video you will quickly see that I really like this Spitfire, and whats not to like. The ARF comes with plenty of scale details and when you add the E-flite electric retracts you have one sweet looking and flying Spitfire.  be sure to check it out!

Hangar_9_Spitfire-1416 Hangar_9_Spitfire-5182 Hangar_9_Spitfire-1436 Hangar_9_Spitfire-5089 Hangar_9_Spitfire-1453

 

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You could be a Winner!!!

You could be a Winner!!!
Hey! You could be a winner! MAN is giving away four laser-cut kits in every issue, from Alien Aircraft! Tips & Tricks is our most popular column and it’s a way for readers to share what they know. Send a photo or a rough sketch of your idea… via email to: MAN@AirAge.com or stick it in an envelop and send it to: Tips & Tricks c/o Model Airplane News, 88 Danbury Road, Suite 2B, Wilton, CT 06897. It’s that simple. If we pick your idea, and publish it, you win one of Alien Aircraft’s kits!
sand n cut color
What are you waiting for?

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First flight success

First flight success

Earn your wings the pain-free way!

A 4-channel, aileron-equipped, molded foam trainer like the Multiplex Mini Mag is ideal for flight training.

So what’s all this excitement about small RC planes? Well, there are a lot of reasons why people choose to fly park flyers. They are very quiet and can be flown just about anywhere, they aren’t very labor-intensive when it comes to assembly and many come out of the box ready to fly. Also, they don’t cost as much as the larger glow engine planes do to get into the air. Another big plus is that should you hit the ground trying to land, they are much easier and less costly to repair. In fact, some are designed to come apart on impact so there’s almost no damage at all. So, with all that they have going for them, let’s take a closer look at how they fly.

GROUND SCHOOL

The first thing I would suggest is to hook up with an experienced RC pilot who can be your flight instructor. A lot can be learned with a flight simulator program, but nothing will increase your progress more than some quality one-on-one time with someone who can guide you during those first few flights. To be successful, you should try to develop a training plan. Each flight should have a goal and you should build on what you’ve learned from previous flights. Only after you have mastered the tasks at hand should you go on to the next step. If your plane has large enough wheels, a good way to start is to first taxi. You can then move on to takeoff, straight and level flight, turning left and right and flying at low airspeeds. As you gain experience, start flying at lower and lower altitudes and then, start setting up your first landing approaches. Throughout the whole process, try to keep your model under control and be aware of the wind conditions.

BUDDY SYSTEM

After “flying” an RC flight sim, hook up with a real flight instructor.

One of the best training aids is called a Buddy Box. This setup involves a cable connected between the student’s and instructor’s transmitters to allow the instructor to take over control with the flip of a switch should the student pilot get into trouble. Available from many radio manufacturers, Buddy Box training systems are also often available from organized RC airplane clubs.

In practice, the instructor uses his or her radio, controls the model during take-off and then flies it to a safe altitude. The instructor then simply activates and holds the trainer switch to transfer flight control to the student’s radio. If, for any reason, the student gets into trouble, the instructor simply releases the spring-loaded switch to instantly regain control. Compared to using a single radio where an instructor has to remove the radio from the student’s hands to regain control, the Buddy Box system is much easier and is considered by many to be the preferred training system.

TAXI TESTS

Most ready-to-fly trainers come with everything you need-including spare props and a radio.

Once you check to make sure all your control surfaces are moving properly and in the correct directions, slowly start taxiing your model back and forth. Your instructor should let you get the feel of the model on the ground before actually flying it. Notice that when you taxi with the wind, the rudder is slightly less effective than when you taxi directly into the wind. For tail-dragger planes, apply a little up-elevator to keep the tailwheel planted firmly on the ground or a little down-elevator to keep the nose wheel of a tricycle-geared model held down for maximum steering control. Taxiing is also a safe way to learn control reversal. When the model is going away from you, left is left and right is right. When the model is pointing toward you however, left and right feel reversed! When you push the stick to the right, the model turns to its right, but that’s perceived as your left. This can be very confusing at first but with practice, you’ll learn to automatically adjust when the model turns around and comes toward you.

This Cessna 182 from Parkflyers RC responds well even in windy conditions, which is an important trait when learning to bank and turn.

Also, practice advancing the throttle slowly to minimize the effects of motor and prop torque on the model. As you advance the throttle, notice that the model will tend to swerve to the left. This is corrected by applying a slight amount of right rudder. Always keep a light touch on the controls as a heavy-handed approach can lead to over controlling your model, which makes the task all the more difficult.

Once you’re comfortable taxiing your model and can guide it without losing control, you’ll be ready for the exciting part-takeoff!

FIRST FLIGHT

Generally, the first few flights of your model will be under the full control of the instructor and he will both take off and land your model for you. As you learn to anticipate your model’s needed corrections and show the required amount of control, your instructor will tell you, “Go ahead, take’er off this time!” Remember to always take off pointing into the wind, never downwind!

Most trainers and beginner sport planes are fairly stable and when you advance the throttle to full, will climb nicely almost by themselves

Taking off is actually quite easy. Most trainers and beginner sport planes are fairly stable and when you advance the throttle to full, will climb nicely almost by themselves. Concentrate on maintaining a straight heading, advance the throttle slowly and correct steer with rudder (add a little right to keep it going straight down the runway). As the model gets light on the wheels, pull back slightly on the elevator stick and the model’s nose will rise slightly. Keep the wings level and let the model climb out at about a shallow angle. If the model jumps off the ground and heads up at a steep angle, don’t panic. Ease off the elevator stick and if necessary, apply a slight amount of down-elevator (push the elevator stick forward slightly) to keep the model at the proper climb angle.

Once the model is at a safe altitude (75 to 100 feet) it’s time to turn it around.

HAND LAUNCHING

Small models like this ParkZone Micro Mustang are easy to hand launch.

Another way to get into the air is to hand launch your model. This works well for models with small wheels (or with no landing gear at all) at flying areas with tall, unmaintained grass. A certain amount of care is required and this technique works very well.

1 While you hold the transmitter, have a friend hold your model firmly just behind the center of gravity with one hand while the other hand supports the model’s front. The model should be held above head level with its nose raised slightly
. The more powerful the model, the higher the nose up angle can be.

2 After a few quick paces, the model should be tossed into the air javelin style. It’s important not to launch the model nose down as this will cause the model to hit the ground. Nor should the model be launched at an extreme nose-up angle as this slows the model down and can make it stall shortly after it’s released. Care should be taken not to have the tail of the model strike the launcher and the launcher should always keep his or her hands free of the propeller. Note: For lightweight, less powerful airplanes, you should launch the model level or even slightly nose down and pointed above the horizon.

3 Once you have sufficient experience, you can also try hand launching by yourself with the plane in your launching hand and the transmitter in the other. Hold the plane up and slightly out from your body, with wings level. Use your thumb to advance the throttle to full and give the plane a firm toss with nose slightly high. Once the plane is airborne and climbing, quickly and smoothly bring your launch hand to the transmitter and grasp the control stick.

4 Be ready to apply any corrections to keep the plane’s wings level. Allow the model to climb to a safe altitude before reducing power to cruise and trimming the controls for straight and level. Hand launching also allows you to fly out of areas that normally would not allow normal operation of a landing gear-equipped model. Before hand launching your plane from a smaller area, be sure to evaluate your landing approach. It takes more room to land than it does to hand launch a model. Have fun and fly safe!

BANKING AND TURNING

After taking off, the next thing to learn is how to turn the model left and right. Without this maneuver, we’d lose a lot of models over the horizon. The ailerons make the model roll and this is the first step in making a turn. Apply a little left or right aileron and bank the model to about 15 to 20 degrees. You can then add some up-elevator to bring the model around and begin the turn. To increase or decrease the radius of the turn, you add more or less elevator. Aileron input is used to maintain the angle of bank. At the same time as adding the aileron and elevator inputs, we must also increase throttle slightly to make up for the added drag that will make the model to slow down and descend. Once the model is on the new heading we want, stop the turn and bring the wings back to a level position by releasing up-elevator and applying a slight amount of opposite aileron. Finally, bring the throttle to the previous setting for straight and level flight.

From a straight flightline out away from yourself, an 180-degree turn will bring your model heading back toward yourself so remember the control reversal. Your left is not your model’s left, they’re opposite! A simple way of correcting your model’s flight path is to move the aileron stick toward the lower wing panel. As you look at the oncoming model, if the right wing is low, move the aileron stick slightly to the right and it will lift that wing to return the model to straight and level flight. Think of it as using the aileron stick to prop up that lower wing panel. This technique works really well and goes a long way in helping you master control of your model.

LANDINGS

Now available as a bind-n-fly version, the ParkZone Super Cub is very rugged and has an “anti-crash technology” auto stabilization system.

There is really only one way to become good at landings-practice! Start your landing practice at a safe altitude by learning how to fly your models at low throttle setting. Trim your model for the slower flight speeds then bring the throttle back. You’ll have to pull the model’s nose up slightly to keep it from descending. The higher angle of attack slows the model’s speed. The model’s descent rate is controlled with the throttle. You want to land at or slightly above your model’s stall speed, so you first have to learn what that speed is and then practice flying your model into and out of the stalled condition. Once you get a feel for where and when the model will stall (in the air), you can confidently land on the ground.

TRAFFIC PATTERN

Just before touchdown, you need to flare up the plane to slow it down. It should touch the ground just as the wing stalls and loses lift.

There are four basic parts of the landing pattern-the downwind leg, the base leg, final approach and the flare just before touchdown. To keep your airspeed as high as possible, relative to the model’s speed over the ground, always land into the wind. The two turns from downwind to the base leg and from the base leg to the final approach, should be 90 degrees and flown with a shallow 15 to 20 degrees of bank. For these turns in the pattern, the throttle should be reduced to allow the model to descend.

Start your landing practice at a safe altitude by learning how to fly your models at low throttle setting

While traveling downwind over the far side of the runway and directly in front of you, pull the throttle to about half and apply some back pressure on the elevator stick. As the model descends to about 50 feet altitude, turn 90 degrees to the base leg and then level the wings. Control your descent with the throttle and use the elevator to adjust your airspeed. Remember you don’t want to stall, but just fly above the stall speed. Make another 90-degree turn to establish the final approach heading and line up your model with the center of the runway. Your descent angle should bring your model to the end of the runway just as it begins to enter stall its speed. Pull your power back to idle then begin to flare (pull the nose up gradually) just as the model contacts the ground. Proper use of the throttle and controlling your airspeed will help prevent your model from bouncing back into the air.

Once your model is sitting nicely on the runway, all that’s left is to use the rudder and a bit of throttle to taxi back to your pit area. Phew! That wasn’t all that hard was it?

There’s really nothing so satisfying as properly making your first perfect landing. You’ll spend the rest of your hobby career perfecting and fine-tuning your landing skills. Crosswinds and gusty days always challenge you to improve. This is where shooting touch-and-gos come in handy. Just remember to always keep in front of the model mentally, know what you’re going to do next so the model does not get ahead of you. Above all, stay in control!

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Can You Name That Plane?

Can You Name That Plane?

Powered by a Moki 250cc 5-cylinder radial gas engine with a 32×12 Biela 3-blade prop, this 1/4-scale model weighs in at 74 pounds and has a 115-inch wingspan. Can you identify this plane before you watch the video? Thanks to our friend across the pond, Tbobborap1 for taking and this video of this gorgeous warbird at an RC fly-in at the RAF Barkston Heath airfield and posting it on YouTube.

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.