Shortlink

Patching up a Camel — Wing Repairs

Patching up a Camel — Wing Repairs

While flying the Sopwith Camel featured in our Build-Along series, I made a bad piloting decision. While at the Warbirds over Delaware event, I made a few successful flights in between taking photos and covering the event for MAN. Anyway, I came in for a landing and allowed the Camel to drift off the runway and touched down in the rough. I noticed what was happening and went to full power hoping to make an unscheduled touch and go. But what happened was I made full power nose-over landing flipping the plane onto it “back”. There was some damage to the top of the rudder, but I noticed that the wing was flexing and the covering showed a definite defect along the center spar. So, I ended the aviation part of my weekend and brought the Camel home. Here’s how I fixed the top wing.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) the first thing was to go over the entire airplane and check for any obvious damage. Other than the top of the rudder, nothing was wrong. But the wing was definitely showing signs of internal damage. I removed the covering as shown here and went over everything very closely.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) the damage was confined to the main spare very close to the plywood center spar braces.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) it doesn’t look like much but the discolored lines here are spanwise splits in the top spar. Not actually cracked or obviously damaged, but running between the two plywood braces allowing about a 1/2 inch deflection at the wingtips. (I suspect I may have used defective material when I made up the spars!)

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

So, I added additional plywood supports to help bear the load and then placed the wing flat on my workbench. I used thin and medium ZAP glue and soaked the damage sections of the top spar. I did not use Kicker as I wanted the glue to saturate the wood.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

The next step was to wick thin Zap under the undamaged covering and fix it to the ribs. As you can see, I cut the fabric flush with the rib bay just outside of the damaged area.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

Using MEK solvent, I removed the top layers of paint above the wing center cutout bow. THis was not damaged so no need to remove the covering. But I wanted a good bond for the new covering material.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) Since the Camel is covered and finished with Scale Stits and Poly Tone paint, it is rather easy to make these kind of repairs. I Brushed on a coat of the Poly Tak fabric adhesive over the ribs and the top of the covered wing sections and let it dry. I then cut the new fabric to size and glue it into place. I started at the corners and then along the edges, pulling the fabric tight as I went.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) Here’s the completed patch job with all the wrinkles ironed out. This is just prior to adding rib tapes and sealing the cloth.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) here is the repair with six coats of Poly Brush applied along with the pinked tapes added to the new fabric. I used pre-cut tapes made from the same poly-fiber material as the cloth. They are available from F&M Enterprises. No wrinkles or loose cloth seen anywhere.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) for the painting, I went out one rib bay from the patch and taped off the wing. I then apply two light coats of Poly Spray silver undercoat. When this dried completely, I used a green ScotchBrite pad and lightly went over the tapes to knock off any sharp edged.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) Three light coats of color and the repair is almost impossible to detect. The new paint here is still wet (tacky) and so is still glossy in appearance. As it fully dries it will become more muted and will better match the old finish. I will later on go over the area with a little weathering to help blend the old and new areas.

That’s it. Scale Stits fabric and Poly Tone paint is the greatest stuff to repair. I have been using it for close to 20 years and find it extremely easy to work with.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

So here’s the rudder. I repaired it at the field, pulling the damaged top back into position and slitting the covering so I could inject thin Zap glue into the damaged parts. Looks pretty good and I will use a heat gun to retighten the covering. If it works out, all I will have to do is touch up the paint. If not, then I will post another repair showing how to replace the damaged rudder.

Until next time, Don’t land in the rough!

 

 

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Patching up a Camel — Wing Repairs

Patching up a Camel — Wing Repairs

While flying the Sopwith Camel featured in our Build-Along series, I made a bad piloting decision. While at the Warbirds over Delaware event, I made a few successful flights in between taking photos and covering the event for MAN. Anyway, I came in for a landing and allowed the Camel to drift off the runway and touched down in the rough. I noticed what was happening and went to full power hoping to make an unscheduled touch and go. But what happened was I made full power nose-over landing flipping the plane onto it “back”. There was some damage to the top of the rudder, but I noticed that the wing was flexing and the covering showed a definite defect along the center spar. So, I ended the aviation part of my weekend and brought the Camel home. Here’s how I fixed the top wing.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) the first thing was to go over the entire airplane and check for any obvious damage. Other than the top of the rudder, nothing was wrong. But the wing was definitely showing signs of internal damage. I removed the covering as shown here and went over everything very closely.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) the damage was confined to the main spare very close to the plywood center spar braces.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) it doesn’t look like much but the discolored lines here are spanwise splits in the top spar. Not actually cracked or obviously damaged, but running between the two plywood braces allowing about a 1/2 inch deflection at the wingtips. (I suspect I may have used defective material when I made up the spars!)

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

So, I added additional plywood supports to help bear the load and then placed the wing flat on my workbench. I used thin and medium ZAP glue and soaked the damage sections of the top spar. I did not use Kicker as I wanted the glue to saturate the wood.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

The next step was to wick thin Zap under the undamaged covering and fix it to the ribs. As you can see, I cut the fabric flush with the rib bay just outside of the damaged area.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

Using MEK solvent, I removed the top layers of paint above the wing center cutout bow. THis was not damaged so no need to remove the covering. But I wanted a good bond for the new covering material.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) Since the Camel is covered and finished with Scale Stits and Poly Tone paint, it is rather easy to make these kind of repairs. I Brushed on a coat of the Poly Tak fabric adhesive over the ribs and the top of the covered wing sections and let it dry. I then cut the new fabric to size and glue it into place. I started at the corners and then along the edges, pulling the fabric tight as I went.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) Here’s the completed patch job with all the wrinkles ironed out. This is just prior to adding rib tapes and sealing the cloth.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) here is the repair with six coats of Poly Brush applied along with the pinked tapes added to the new fabric. I used pre-cut tapes made from the same poly-fiber material as the cloth. They are available from F&M Enterprises. No wrinkles or loose cloth seen anywhere.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) for the painting, I went out one rib bay from the patch and taped off the wing. I then apply two light coats of Poly Spray silver undercoat. When this dried completely, I used a green ScotchBrite pad and lightly went over the tapes to knock off any sharp edged.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

(Above) Three light coats of color and the repair is almost impossible to detect. The new paint here is still wet (tacky) and so is still glossy in appearance. As it fully dries it will become more muted and will better match the old finish. I will later on go over the area with a little weathering to help blend the old and new areas.

That’s it. Scale Stits fabric and Poly Tone paint is the greatest stuff to repair. I have been using it for close to 20 years and find it extremely easy to work with.

RC Radio Control, Scale Stits Sopwith Camel, Repair, Poly Tone Paint, F&M Enterprises

So here’s the rudder. I repaired it at the field, pulling the damaged top back into position and slitting the covering so I could inject thin Zap glue into the damaged parts. Looks pretty good and I will use a heat gun to retighten the covering. If it works out, all I will have to do is touch up the paint. If not, then I will post another repair showing how to replace the damaged rudder.

Until next time, Don’t land in the rough!

 

 

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Russian Racer: Yak-11 “Steadfast”

Russian Racer: Yak-11 “Steadfast”

We love the sound of this 1/3-scale model of the Unlimited Racer as it makes those high-speed passes! Powered by a 400cc Moki, the 110-inch-span model put on a show at the Oldtimer Meet in Frauenfeld, Switzerland earlier this year. No word on the pilot or builder of this beauty, but they sure did a nice job on the scheme. We hope you enjoy this great video courtesy of RCHeliJet.

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Video: Ehang Ghost Quadcopter RTF

Video: Ehang Ghost Quadcopter RTF

It’s true: in less than a minute, you can make the Ghost do everything you want it to, even if you’ve never flown a drone before. All you need is a personal device and the free Ehang app. One-tap commands take the place of flying and navigation, literally putting control of the Ghost at your fingertips. You can also use them to put the Ghost into “Follow-Me” mode, leaving you free to be in the moment and enjoy your flight as it happens. Add a GoPro® Hero 3 or 4 camera (gimbal included) and you can relive every thrilling moment of your flight through photos or videos. Available for Android™ and iOS devices.

Includes:

  • Assembled airframe with colored LEDs
  • 2.4GHz Gbox with wireless technology
  • Gimbal compatible with GoPro® Hero 3 & 4 cameras
  • 3S2P 5400mAh LiPo battery & charger
  • (8) 8×4.5 3-blade propellers

Specs:

Diagonal Measurement: 360 mm (14.2 in)
Weight w/o Battery: 650 g (22.9 oz)
Requires: app, device for Android or iOS & camera
Flight Time: 18-23 minutes
Maximum Range: 1,000 meters (0.62 miles)

EHGE03LL Ghost for Android devices
EHGE04LL Ghost for iOS devices

Android is a trademark of Google, Inc. GoPro is a registered trademark of GoPro, Inc.

Gallery > Ehang Ghost Quadcopter RTF

Tags:

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Don’t cook your speed control!

Don’t cook your speed control!

Avoid these common power system mistakes
Electric fliers all have one thing in common regardless of the size or type of models they fly—the electronic speed control (ESC). It doesn’t matter if you fly helicopters, airplanes, giant-scale, indoor, or micro models; at the heart of your power system is the speed control, and if it’s unhappy, you will be too. The costs and types of speed controls vary in every aspect and that includes quality. The one constant, however, is your understanding of how to make them last, which in the end, saves money and your aircraft!

Poorly constructed motors can throw magnets and cause extreme current spikes that will destroy a speed control.

Quality Matters
This pretty much covers everything. Quality motors, connectors, speed controls, installation, solder joints, etc., but let’s talk about components. When encountering speed control problems, we don’t often think about whether they might have been caused by a cheap (poorly made) motor, but it can and does happen. I recently experienced a catastrophic failure in a foam jet that caused the speed control to melt and actually burn its way out of the bottom of the aircraft. Parts of it were left inside, but it unsoldered itself and melted completely. Upon post-mortem inspection, I found that the magnets inside the motor were unevenly spaced and one had actually come loose and been chewed into pieces as the motor spun. The funny thing about electric motors is when something starts to go wrong, the motor will just ask for more current so it can work to overcome it. My on-board data logger showed normal current at takeoff and shortly after, it began to climb until it spiked off the scale. This is an indication that the motor was failing and the binding of the magnet chunks caused the excessive current spike that subsequently melted the speed control. Some speed controls have over-current protection and others don’t. Look for one that does! This doesn’t guarantee that it won’t be damaged by a sudden failure like mine, but it just may help save the speed control. This was an expensive failure due to a poorly made motor.

BE COOL!

The speed control in this foam jet is jammed into the nose, so it’s fully insulated and gets no cooling air. With the heavy load from the motor and too many servos, this will overheat and die quickly.

Install your speed control in a place where you can get maximum airflow across it. Remember that if you let cool air into the fuselage, you have to provide a place for the air to get out too. That exit hole should be about twice the size of the inlet hole. Heat is the enemy, so the cooler you keep your speed control, the happier it will be.

Eleven servos and an onboard LED lighting system overtax the speed control’s BEC.

SIZE MATTERS
The quickest way to get experience buying speed controls is to buy them too small for the application—meaning the motor voltage and current requirements along with the BEC (battery eliminator circuit) requirements if you’re using one. If you’re sizing your speed control based on the maximum requirements of the system and you’re just barely meeting them, go to the next size up. If you can use one with a heat sink, do so. If your BEC requirements match or exceed the ratings of the speed control’s BEC, then choose a different speed control or disable the BEC and use appropriate receiver power. Remember, if your BEC fails, you lose the airplane.

Proper Soldering

A good soldered joint between the wire and 6mm bullet will handle a lot of current. Note that there is no excess solder running all over the outside of the bullet and the joint is shiny clean.

Many of the connectors in our electric power systems need to be soldered to wires. Always use properly sized wire gauges and quality connectors. Even the best soldering job can’t make up for bad wire and poorly made connectors. A properly soldered joint is shiny! Your components can’t be too clean, so clean the components before trying to solder them. Your fingers will get oils on everything, so be careful with what you touch. Tin both surfaces before joining them and then use just enough heat to let the solder flow between the two pieces. If the iron is oversized and too hot, it will end up being a dark, burned joint. If the solder flows and ends up nice, shiny, and bright—you’ve been successful.

Wiring Basics

This is a big motor requiring a large speed control and unfortunately, this one isn’t up to the task. Adding to the problems is the small gauge wire and adapter using uninsulated bullets. This system was caught and changed before there could be a problem.

A question I often hear is, “Is it better to lengthen the wires from the battery to the speed control or to lengthen the wires from the speed control to the motor?” Online forums are full of ideas, opinions, conjecture, and debate over this question. Let me give the simple answer first; it is better to lengthen the wires from the speed control to the motor and keep the battery wires as short as possible. That’s it, plain and simple.

The debate arises over resistance and inductance. It’s argued that using a larger gauge wire reduces the resistance, making Recipe for a Cooked longer battery wires acceptable. While it does reduce resistance, it doesn’t take into account the increased inductance it causes. Proponents of lengthening the battery wires say that can be overcome by adding additional capacitors to the front of the speed control. This is a patch, not a fix. The speed control comes with capacitors installed as determined by the manufacturer for its intended application. Without specific knowledge on current and how good the flyback diodes are, along with the switching speed of the FETs, voltage rating of the FETs, and types of FETs, you’re grasping at straws. If you do know those things, you’ll still need to do a lot of math to figure out the appropriate caps to add.

Recipe for a Cooked Speed Control

  • Take one undersized speed control
  • Add cold solder joints
  • Use extra long wires from the battery to the speed control
  • Pack it in a foam plane with no cooling air
  • Fly partial throttle settings extensively
  • Push the BEC to its max limits and beyond
  • Fly consecutive flights without a break

Here are quotes from AstroFlight’s Bob Boucher on the topic of which wire to lengthen:

  • Wire resistance may rob you of a bit of power, but it will not destroy your speed control or motor.
  • Wire inductance will not damage your motor nor will you be able to detect any effect even with 100 feet of wire.
  • Wire inductance will kill the mosfets in your controller and may even blow the caps. Ed. Note: Bob is comparing inductance in the motor to speed control wire with inductance in the speed control to battery wire.
  • You must keep battery wires as short as practical. Short means one foot or less, brushed or brushless makes no difference.

Bob is better known as “AstroBob,” former owner of AstroFlight and holder of a patent on electric flight. When AstroBob talks, I listen. Always lengthen the wires from the motor to the speed control if needed. The best possible solution is to keep all wires as short as possible, but we know that’s not always easy when you’re doing that special scale project.

NEATNESS COUNTS

All of these unsecured wires flopping around right over the receiver antenna will cause trouble. There is also 18 inches of wire from the battery to the speed control, and that’s WAY too much!

Remember what your mother told you, “neatness is important.” A jumble of wires just stuffed into a fuselage can cause many problems, especially if they are unsecured and flopping around on top of your receiver antenna. We have become overly secure with our robust 2.4 systems, but wires moving around in close proximity or touching the antennas can and will cause reception problems. If you have so much wire that you need to bundle them or tie them up, take the time to trim them to the proper size. This makes the plane safer, but also shortens wires and decreases resistance. This counts whether it’s for your motor/speed control or servos.

Mismatched connectors are ALWAYS a bad idea.

Connectors & Adapters

Note the securely attached speed control for this big power system and how the connections are well insulated and secured. Short wire runs and a protective grommet in the firewall, where the wires pass through, ensures no shorts over time.

An improper extension made by jamming a bullet into the EC5 connectors. Great connectors ruined by a bad idea.

A homemade parallel battery connector in a plane; wire nuts belong at home, not in your plane.

There is no standardization between connector types, so most of us end up using an adapter at one time or another. Be sure to wire and solder them carefully. Double check the adapter before using it. The goal in electrics is to reduce the possibility for increased resistance in our circuits. This causes heat and wasted power. It’s best not to use an adapter, but if it’s necessary, be sure it’s properly sized and constructed. Wire nuts have their places in home wiring construction, but NEVER belong inside our aircraft.

Check your manufacturer’s website to see the limits of their connectors. If you’re pushing the limits of your 4mm bullet connector, then go to a 6mm size. The same applies when you’re using EC3s or whatever brand. You want the most surface contact and least amount of resistance you can get for maximum efficiency from your system.

Tips for a Happy Speed Control

  • • Buy a quality speed control
  • • Buy one large enough to handle the load
  • • Don’t exceed the BEC limits
  • • Provide cooling; all that you can get
  • • Keep wires as short as possible
  • • Use appropriate connectors

NEVER mismatch connectors. I’ve seen Dean’s Ultras jammed into female bullet types and that is a recipe for disaster. I’ve also seen spade plugs shoved into the grooves between the contacts on a male bullet connector. Likewise, alligator clips have no place in an electric airplane. They may seem like a universal fix, but it’s actually a universal mistake. All of these things can be inefficient, but more importantly—they are all dangerous and create a fire hazard.

MOUNT IT SECURELY

It’s not always easy to find the right place to securely mount the speed control, but it’s absolutely necessary. Some larger controllers come with mounting brackets so they can be screwed to the front of a firewall, etc. Most smaller controllers depend on you to figure it out. Velcro is the usual method of choice and works well. Be sure it is secure though. If in doubt, use industrial strength versions or rigid lock tabs. Whatever you do, don’t allow it to flop around inside your plane held only by the wires.

BOTTOM LINE

No one wants to cook their speed controllers! As with everything else involved in our hobby, it’s the small details that matter the most. Avoid these common mistakes and you’ll maximize your airplane’s efficiency and greatly lengthen its lifespan.  –BY GREG GIMLICK

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Fast Fuel Fixes

Fast Fuel Fixes

Properly installed, your fuel system will last a very long time and may never need to be changed. In a hard landing, however, some of its parts may be dislodged and stop working. Here are some common fuel-flow problems and fixes.

> If your engine begins to run lean, check for small pinholes in the fuel-supply line. Check closely wherever here are tight bends in the line, or where it comes ino contact with your model. Leaks commonly occur where the lines pass through the firewall. A better method of installation is to drill small holes in the firewall and use lengths of brass tubes in the holes. You can then slip the fuel lines over the brass tubes to complete the system.

 

 

> After a hard landing, the flexible pick-up tube and clunk inside the fuel tank may be forced all the way forward. This often goes unnoticed until the next flight, when the tank stops delivering fuel to the engine in a nose-high altitude. To prevent this, solder a short piece of brass tube to your clunk. This decreases the pick-up tube’s flexibility but still allows it to draw fuel in normal flying attitudes.

 

> If your engine begins to run erratically, chances are that some debris has gotten into the fuel system and is blocking the carb. It usually finds its way into the fuel tank from your fuel jug, and if it blocks the fuel flow, your engine will die. The easiest way to prevent this is with an in-line fuel filter. You install it just before the carb in the supply line. You can also install a filter in your fuel-pump line so you can fill the tank only with filtered fuel. Add a combination fuel clunk/filter and you’ll have a triple defense against deadsticks.

 

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

How To Install Hinges

How To Install Hinges

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Warbirds Over Delaware Flightline Highlights

Warbirds Over Delaware Flightline Highlights

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Video: Tatic TTX850 8-Channel 2.4GHz SLT Computer Radio

Video: Tatic TTX850 8-Channel 2.4GHz SLT Computer Radio

The TTX850 is priced significantly below comparable systems, yet offers a list of functions and features that many can’t match. Start off with 30-model memory, which gives you ample storage for current as well as future aircraft. And since the TTX850 is also an SLT system, it’s an affordable, compatible choice for all Tx-R (Transmitter-Ready) aircraft. Programming proceeds with push-button ease and separate menus for multi-rotor craft as well as airplanes and helis. Common functions of all menus include 6 programmable mixes, factory-set mixes, 12-point throttle curve and camera gimbal adjustment. Multi-rotor functions also include throttle hold; heli offers that and 3 swash plate types and airplane functions offer the luxury of eight wing/tail types. Another special feature: dual trainer systems. There’s a wireless system for use with other Tactic systems, as well as a wired system for use with other brands and flight simulators.

These are just a few of the TTX850’s highlights. For a full list of TTX850 functions and features, visit the product page at: http://www.tacticrc.com/transmitters/tacj2850-ttx850/index.html

For information on other Tactic Flight systems, visit:

TACJ2410 TTX410 4-Channel SLT Radio: http://www.tacticrc.com/transmitters/tacj2410-ttx410/index.html

TACJ2610 TTX610 6-Channel SLT Radio: http://www.tacticrc.com/transmitters/tacj2610-ttx610/index.html

TACJ2403 TTX403 4-Channel Micro SLT Radio http://www.tacticrc.com/transmitters/tacj2403-ttx403/index.html

Gallery > Video: Tatic TTX850 8-Channel 2.4GHz SLT Computer Radio

Tags:

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.

Shortlink

Video: O.S. GGT10 10cc Gasoline Engine

Video: O.S. GGT10 10cc Gasoline Engine

Give your .40-size aircraft the advantages of gasoline power with the O.S. GGT10 10cc gasoline engine. Glow plug ignition makes it easy to start — and because no ignition module is needed, overall weight is reduced. The GGT10 performs well using affordable, readily available unleaded gasoline and a 50:1 gasoline/oil blend. Fuel flow is regulated by a PD-08 pump for consistent delivery throughout flight, ensuring dependable engine performance regardless of tank position, attitude or altitude. Pilots currently using the popular AX glow engines can easily retrofit the GGT10 into the same space.

Features:

  • PowerBoost Pipe improves performance at idle, full-throttle and all points in-between.
  • Includes muffler mounting hardware, drive hub, prop nut and washer.

OSMG1510
Displacement: 0.594 cu in (9.73 cc)
Bore: 0.945 in (24.0 mm)
Stroke: 0.846 in (21.5 mm)
Practical RPM Range: 2,000-11,000
Output: 1.58 hp @ 10,000 rpm
Total Weight: 19.8 oz (561 g)
Engine Weight: 15.97 oz (453 g)
Muffler Weight: 3.81 oz (108 g)
Includes: G5 glow plug, E-3071 muffler, PD-08 pump & Tygon fuel line w/inline filter
Requires: unleaded gasoline, 2-stroke oil & propeller
Suggested Props: 12×7, 12×8, 12×9, 13×6, 13×7 & 13×8

Learn more about the O.S. GGT10 by visiting its product page at http://www.osengines.com/engines-airplane/osmg1510/index.html

osmg1510-main-lrg

Model Airplane News - The #1 resource for RC plane and helicopter enthusiasts featuring news, videos, product releases and tech tips.